The other mountain
Qingcheng is where Taoism began — and the mountain Kung Fu Panda made famous. Most visitors meet it as a queue. Sightseeing bus, then cable car, then a climb anyway, shoulder to shoulder with half of holiday China. There is a saying: Qingcheng, the most serene under heaven. For years we joked it should be spelled sorrowful instead.
One morning, and none of it is queued for
A morning at a three-hundred-year-old Taoist temple outside the scenic-area gates: a walk up a pilgrims' road with nothing to buy on it, lunch from the temple's own garden, and tai chi in the courtyard after.
- A road with no ticket gate, no sightseeing bus and no cable car on it
- Forty minutes of wet stone, moss and cedar with not one stall
- A temple that grows its own vegetables, keeps its own chickens and picks its own tea
- Whoever is in residence that month — it changes, and that is part of it
- Ginkgo-and-chicken soup, the dish you are supposed to have on this mountain
- Tofu set with water off the mountain spring
- Qingcheng cured pork — one of the mountain's four famous things
- Green tea from the terraces below the wall, poured before you arrive
- The senior brother, over tea, before anything is scheduled
- Why this temple sits outside the park administration entirely
- Tai chi taught by demonstration — no English promised, and we won't pretend otherwise
- A tai chi form corrected by hand, in a courtyard, by someone who lives there
- A morning on Qingcheng with no queue in it
- The name of the temple, which we give you when you book and not before
What comes to the table
Cooked from the garden, the coop and the terrace
How it unfolds
-
The front mountain has the shops, the ticket gates and the crowds. The outer mountain has none of them — because the track up was never built for tour buses. It was cut for people going up to practise. A pickup takes you as far as wheels go. After that the mountain is on foot.
-
Wet stone, moss, cedar, and a stream running somewhere below you the whole way. What is remarkable about this walk is what is missing from it: not one stall, not one ticket booth, not one loudspeaker. On the front mountain you queue for the cable car. Here you simply walk, and the mountain gets quieter the higher you go.
-
It sits outside the park administration entirely, which is why it still runs on its own terms. The Taoists here grow their vegetables in the back garden, keep their own chickens, and pick tea from the terraces below the wall. Nobody is stationed here for show — the people you meet are the people who live here.
-
The senior brother — everyone calls him that — will have brewed it before you reach the gate, because that is what you do when someone has walked forty minutes uphill to see you. You sit. You get your breath back. Nothing is scheduled for the next twenty minutes.
-
Not a restaurant — the room where the community eats, and you eat in it with them. Ginkgo-and-chicken soup, the dish you are supposed to have on this mountain, simmered the old way. Tofu set with water off the mountain spring. Qingcheng cured pork, one of the mountain's four famous things. Wild greens cut that morning from the back courtyard.
-
There is a reason it comes after lunch and not before. The form is taught the way it has always been taught here — by demonstration, corrected with a hand on your elbow. Your city master interprets everything that needs words. The rest doesn't need any.
Nobody is posted here. They arrive, and one day they leave.
Who you'll actually meet
Because the temple sits outside the park system, it takes in cultivators from anywhere — people who found it the way you're about to, by walking up and asking.
In June we went up to see what had changed and found a Taoist from Taiwan keeping the hall. He had been hiking Qingcheng, come across the place by accident, and asked whether he could stay and practise.
Before him there was a young Taoist — a postgraduate, not raised in the tradition — who spoke enough English to talk with guests directly. He has since gone wandering.
So we promise you tea, a table and the form. We do not promise you English, and we won't pretend otherwise.
Designer's note
“We found it looking for somewhere quiet enough to run a Taiwanese group, and the front mountain was never going to be it. The road up is a pickup track cut for people going to practise. If you really want to find a place like this, you find it — and then you don't put its name on the internet.”
Charles Yang · LyrikTrip travel designer, Chengdu
Good to know
Book the morning
Half a day on its own. Two weeks ahead — the temple confirms its hosting days one at a time.
Start planning- 10:00 – 13:00 on the mountain
- A 300-year temple
- Private, from two
- Book two weeks ahead